State Highpoint Number Ten:
ARIZONA (10)
Date: Monday, May 15, 2000
Peak: Humphries Peak
Height: 12,633 feet
Vertical Climb: 3,500 feet
Round-trip Mileage: 9.5 miles
Peak Class: #6
Height Rank: #12 of 50
Difficulty Rank: #10 of 50
In May of 2000 I took on my greatest challenge since the Guadalupe Peak in Texas---Humphries Peak in Arizona. Most hikers consider Humphries a tough one--tenth hardest of the fifty states and much of the difficulty is the degree of verticle climb--3,500 feet in a little over four miles of trail.
Date: Monday, May 15, 2000
Peak: Humphries Peak
Height: 12,633 feet
Vertical Climb: 3,500 feet
Round-trip Mileage: 9.5 miles
Peak Class: #6
Height Rank: #12 of 50
Difficulty Rank: #10 of 50
In May of 2000 I took on my greatest challenge since the Guadalupe Peak in Texas---Humphries Peak in Arizona. Most hikers consider Humphries a tough one--tenth hardest of the fifty states and much of the difficulty is the degree of verticle climb--3,500 feet in a little over four miles of trail.
I checked into a Flagstaff motel and then drove north of town to the Arizona Ski Bowl and found the Humphries trailhead. Talked to two guys coming down and they said they didn’t make it to the top and that there was quite a bit of snow on the ground and was very windy. Really had trouble breathing when I got out of the car at the trailhead.
Stopped at Albertsons on the way down and got some trail mix, fruit and a six-pack of quart water bottles. Ate at Porkys and had a Mexican-style chicken fried steak which was covered with green sauce with refried beans and rice. It was actually pretty good and I was really hungry. Went back to the motel, blew off typing on the computer and went to bed.
Monday, May 15:
Woke up a couple of times during the night because of trains but basically slept pretty well. Woke up around 5:30 and it was already daylight outside. It was a beautiful day---sunny with blue sky. Thought about it awhile and decided to hike Humphries today instead of acclimating one day. Took a diamox tablet and stopped and got some coffee at McDonalds.
Reached the trailhead around 7:00 and frankly was a little bit intimidated by the mountain. Didn’t see anybody else ahead of me. Started off through meadow and into trees below a ski lift. About a half mile up I signed into the trail register and started up a forest trail. The climb wasn’t too bad---not as bad as the beginning of Guadalupe had been. Reached t
he one-mile marker at almost exactly one hour which
I thought was pretty good. After the one-mile marker I began running into quite a bit of snow and ice on the trail which concerned me. So far the backpack was fitting ok but I did stop and put on the fleece shirt.
Reached the two-mile marker at almost exactly two hours and felt really good about my progress. Began running into even more snow. A girl passed me on the way up. I had picked up a hiking stick at the beginning of the trail and was really glad I had it---especially in the snow and ice.
I reached the tree-mile marker at 2 hours 45 minutes which I really don’t understand because it seemed like the snow had slowed me down considerably. This is where the tundra began and I continued to hike through lighter forest for a ways until I was on the same elevation as the ski lodge to my right.
Once I got above the tree line, I was on rocks and my time slowed considerably. I had not had any altitude sickness and my legs were tiring but still felt strong. My knee was doing real well. In the rocky tundra I had trouble following the trail but people had stacked rocks as markers and I managed ok until I got to the first false summit. There it looked like Humphries was to my left but the marker pointed to the right. It was starting to get windy so I got behind some boulders and checked Paul Zumwalt’s map with my compass and the peak really was to my left. It was my first field use of a compass and it really paid off. I also switched my ball cap and put on the stocking cap because of the wind.
I was beginning to tire pretty bad but continued on through a series of heart-breaking, gut-wrenching false summits that had me really discouraged. The weather had turned much colder and the wind continued to pick up. The false summits were very frustrating---at times I was literally scrambling over loose rocks and continued to tire very fast. At one point I got to what I thought was the peak and the woman who had passed me earlier was on the way down and told me it was the last false summit before the real peak.
At this point I was really discouraged but determined to go on at least to the top of the false summit to see Humphries. It was a hard scramble but when I got up there I could finally see the peak (for the first time that day) and it didn’t seem too far away. I continued over what is called the “saddle” and arrived at the last base leading to the peak. The wind was so strong I could hardly stand without leaning into it. At this point I was seriously beginning to become concerned about my personal safety because of the wind.
also at this point my legs were exhausted and I felt like they might begin to quiver---the precursor to muscle spasms. Even though I was so close, I really felt like turning back but thought about all the stadium step climbing and other preparation I had done for the trip and continued on. About fifty feet from the summit there was a huge ridge of ice and snow and beside it was the only way to the top. I was breathing hard but started up and the wind picked up to what must have been gusts of fifty miles per hour. Even bent over, I could hardly stay on my feet. As I made the final approach I was literally on my hands and knees scrambling on loose rocks. At one point I stopped as I was laying on my stomach and thought to myself that I was really in danger of being blown off the mountain. I looked up and could see the peak marker in front of me, took a deep breath and continued up. Once I got off the loose rock I could crouch and made it to the summit. The ascent had taken me 5 hours and 28 minutes.
Previous climbers had built a circular wall of stone to serve as a shelter from the wind. I got into the circle and ate some trail mix and drank some water. At this time I was more than a little concerned for my life. Except for the woman going back down earlier, I hadn’t seen another human being all morning.
I was at 12,600 feet with 50 to 60 miles per hour winds and have never felt more isolated in all my life.
I was so concerned about trying to go back down in the wind that I considered spending the night up there. I had Devin’s insulated ski pants and several shirts and a lighter so I might be able to make a fire. Mostly I was concerned about making that first fifty feet down and getting blown off the mountain and nobody knowing about it.
I was determined to take some pictures and did so but was afraid to take a timed self-portrait because I was afraid the wind would blow the camera off the wall and down the side of the mountain. I used the Magellan and got an almost perfect reading---latitude, longitude and elevation. As I was doing that, I looked over and saw a girl coming up the loose rock. Her boyfriend was behind her and literally pushing her up the last stretch. I can’t remember the last time I was so happy to see other people.
They came into the circle and we talked a bit. He was from southern Arizona but she was from New Jersey. I think she was pretty scared too. We swapped cameras and took pictures of each other. I only stayed on the summit about twenty minutes---I was still seriously concerned about being able to get down the first fifty feet because of the wind. As I crouched--- nearly crawled---to the loose rock, I could see two hikers coming up and two others further back. I sat on my butt and inched my way down the loose rock---stopping at times to lie flat and let the wind die down. I made it to the bottom, though, and was able to get up and begin walking down bent into the wind. The first hiker was a young woman with a large dog and she asked me if anybody else was in the rock nest.
I started back into the “saddle” and realized just how exhausted my legs were and I still had 4 ½ miles downhill to go. I hiked back over the false summits and the rocky tundra. Because my legs were so tired, I was stumbling a lot and once I fell forward but didn’t hurt myself. Another time I fell to my right---on the down side of the mountain and got caught in some loose rocks and nearly went over the side. I got back up limping but didn’t seem to have hurt myself bad. My right knee was scraped up in several places and my right wrist was raw from scraping on the rocks. My knee began to tighten up but as long as I continued walking it was ok. It was a very close call.
I passed several other hikers on the way down but didn’t stop to talk with any of them. I made it back to the tundra sign which was the three mile marker. By then the snow and ice had begun to melt and was real slushy and slippery. Once more I fell to the down side but caught myself again but placed even more stress on my sore knee. Because of all the snow I really was making slow time. The couple I had shared the nest with passed me up as well as the woman with the dog. We rested and talked a bit---they were all real nice. The woman with the dog was from Colorado and used to Alpine hiking.
They continued on and I kept on at my slower pace. After what seemed forever, I reached the two-mile sign and met the woman from Colorado again---resting her dog. I kept on---resting occasionally but afraid to let my knee swell and tighten up. The pack was also starting to hurt my shoulders but it had been perfect for the trip. I had eaten an apple and trail mix and drunk two quart bottles of water.
Finally I made it to the one-mile marker and felt like my legs were going to give out. I felt old and crippled and the walking stick felt like a cane but I didn’t give up. On the way down I felt nauseous a few times but don’t know if it was altitude sickness or the sweet trail mix I was snacking on.
Although it was the easiest leg of the trip that last mile down seemed to take forever. I finally reached the trail register and signed out. The last half-mile was easy but just wouldn’t end. Finally I broke into the meadow and could see the parking lot. I felt like I was staggering at that point. I timed out at 9 hours, 19 minutes and 35 seconds, which is not really all that bad. I left the walking stick for someone else to use and got into the car and immediately drove back. As I was pulling out of the parking lot, I waved at the girl with the dog who was resting on the tailgate of her jeep. I drove the fifteen minutes back to Flagstaff and checked back into the same room at the Motel 6 and showered and took some Advil.
Humphries had been much tougher than I’d imagined but I am really proud I didn’t give up and made it to the summit. I don’t really ever want to do it again, but I’m proud that I did it this day.
After resting a while, I dressed and went back to Porky’s and had a roast beef sandwich that wasn’t all that great. Surprisingly, I wasn’t all that hungry---maybe I was just too tired to be hungry.
Back at the motel, I fell asleep around 8:30 but woke up a couple of times. Overall I finally did get a good sleep.
Tuesday---May 16
Woke up at 5:30 again and got up and took my time this morning. Repacked all my gear---I had really trashed out everything on the hike. Took a hot shower---wasn’t as stiff and sore as I thought I might be. Actually, I came out of the experience in pretty good shape. My knee was tender but not sore. My nose got sunburned (or wind burned) and would need some lotion. When I went outside the motel, it was really cold and the wind was fierce. I don’t think I could have climbed Humphries today---it was a good thing I had changed my schedule the day before.
Stopped at Albertsons on the way down and got some trail mix, fruit and a six-pack of quart water bottles. Ate at Porkys and had a Mexican-style chicken fried steak which was covered with green sauce with refried beans and rice. It was actually pretty good and I was really hungry. Went back to the motel, blew off typing on the computer and went to bed.
Monday, May 15:
Woke up a couple of times during the night because of trains but basically slept pretty well. Woke up around 5:30 and it was already daylight outside. It was a beautiful day---sunny with blue sky. Thought about it awhile and decided to hike Humphries today instead of acclimating one day. Took a diamox tablet and stopped and got some coffee at McDonalds.
Reached the trailhead around 7:00 and frankly was a little bit intimidated by the mountain. Didn’t see anybody else ahead of me. Started off through meadow and into trees below a ski lift. About a half mile up I signed into the trail register and started up a forest trail. The climb wasn’t too bad---not as bad as the beginning of Guadalupe had been. Reached t
he one-mile marker at almost exactly one hour which
I thought was pretty good. After the one-mile marker I began running into quite a bit of snow and ice on the trail which concerned me. So far the backpack was fitting ok but I did stop and put on the fleece shirt.Reached the two-mile marker at almost exactly two hours and felt really good about my progress. Began running into even more snow. A girl passed me on the way up. I had picked up a hiking stick at the beginning of the trail and was really glad I had it---especially in the snow and ice.
I reached the tree-mile marker at 2 hours 45 minutes which I really don’t understand because it seemed like the snow had slowed me down considerably. This is where the tundra began and I continued to hike through lighter forest for a ways until I was on the same elevation as the ski lodge to my right.
Once I got above the tree line, I was on rocks and my time slowed considerably. I had not had any altitude sickness and my legs were tiring but still felt strong. My knee was doing real well. In the rocky tundra I had trouble following the trail but people had stacked rocks as markers and I managed ok until I got to the first false summit. There it looked like Humphries was to my left but the marker pointed to the right. It was starting to get windy so I got behind some boulders and checked Paul Zumwalt’s map with my compass and the peak really was to my left. It was my first field use of a compass and it really paid off. I also switched my ball cap and put on the stocking cap because of the wind.
I was beginning to tire pretty bad but continued on through a series of heart-breaking, gut-wrenching false summits that had me really discouraged. The weather had turned much colder and the wind continued to pick up. The false summits were very frustrating---at times I was literally scrambling over loose rocks and continued to tire very fast. At one point I got to what I thought was the peak and the woman who had passed me earlier was on the way down and told me it was the last false summit before the real peak.
At this point I was really discouraged but determined to go on at least to the top of the false summit to see Humphries. It was a hard scramble but when I got up there I could finally see the peak (for the first time that day) and it didn’t seem too far away. I continued over what is called the “saddle” and arrived at the last base leading to the peak. The wind was so strong I could hardly stand without leaning into it. At this point I was seriously beginning to become concerned about my personal safety because of the wind.
also at this point my legs were exhausted and I felt like they might begin to quiver---the precursor to muscle spasms. Even though I was so close, I really felt like turning back but thought about all the stadium step climbing and other preparation I had done for the trip and continued on. About fifty feet from the summit there was a huge ridge of ice and snow and beside it was the only way to the top. I was breathing hard but started up and the wind picked up to what must have been gusts of fifty miles per hour. Even bent over, I could hardly stay on my feet. As I made the final approach I was literally on my hands and knees scrambling on loose rocks. At one point I stopped as I was laying on my stomach and thought to myself that I was really in danger of being blown off the mountain. I looked up and could see the peak marker in front of me, took a deep breath and continued up. Once I got off the loose rock I could crouch and made it to the summit. The ascent had taken me 5 hours and 28 minutes.
Previous climbers had built a circular wall of stone to serve as a shelter from the wind. I got into the circle and ate some trail mix and drank some water. At this time I was more than a little concerned for my life. Except for the woman going back down earlier, I hadn’t seen another human being all morning.
I was at 12,600 feet with 50 to 60 miles per hour winds and have never felt more isolated in all my life.
I was so concerned about trying to go back down in the wind that I considered spending the night up there. I had Devin’s insulated ski pants and several shirts and a lighter so I might be able to make a fire. Mostly I was concerned about making that first fifty feet down and getting blown off the mountain and nobody knowing about it.
I was determined to take some pictures and did so but was afraid to take a timed self-portrait because I was afraid the wind would blow the camera off the wall and down the side of the mountain. I used the Magellan and got an almost perfect reading---latitude, longitude and elevation. As I was doing that, I looked over and saw a girl coming up the loose rock. Her boyfriend was behind her and literally pushing her up the last stretch. I can’t remember the last time I was so happy to see other people.
They came into the circle and we talked a bit. He was from southern Arizona but she was from New Jersey. I think she was pretty scared too. We swapped cameras and took pictures of each other. I only stayed on the summit about twenty minutes---I was still seriously concerned about being able to get down the first fifty feet because of the wind. As I crouched--- nearly crawled---to the loose rock, I could see two hikers coming up and two others further back. I sat on my butt and inched my way down the loose rock---stopping at times to lie flat and let the wind die down. I made it to the bottom, though, and was able to get up and begin walking down bent into the wind. The first hiker was a young woman with a large dog and she asked me if anybody else was in the rock nest.
I started back into the “saddle” and realized just how exhausted my legs were and I still had 4 ½ miles downhill to go. I hiked back over the false summits and the rocky tundra. Because my legs were so tired, I was stumbling a lot and once I fell forward but didn’t hurt myself. Another time I fell to my right---on the down side of the mountain and got caught in some loose rocks and nearly went over the side. I got back up limping but didn’t seem to have hurt myself bad. My right knee was scraped up in several places and my right wrist was raw from scraping on the rocks. My knee began to tighten up but as long as I continued walking it was ok. It was a very close call.
I passed several other hikers on the way down but didn’t stop to talk with any of them. I made it back to the tundra sign which was the three mile marker. By then the snow and ice had begun to melt and was real slushy and slippery. Once more I fell to the down side but caught myself again but placed even more stress on my sore knee. Because of all the snow I really was making slow time. The couple I had shared the nest with passed me up as well as the woman with the dog. We rested and talked a bit---they were all real nice. The woman with the dog was from Colorado and used to Alpine hiking.
They continued on and I kept on at my slower pace. After what seemed forever, I reached the two-mile sign and met the woman from Colorado again---resting her dog. I kept on---resting occasionally but afraid to let my knee swell and tighten up. The pack was also starting to hurt my shoulders but it had been perfect for the trip. I had eaten an apple and trail mix and drunk two quart bottles of water.
Finally I made it to the one-mile marker and felt like my legs were going to give out. I felt old and crippled and the walking stick felt like a cane but I didn’t give up. On the way down I felt nauseous a few times but don’t know if it was altitude sickness or the sweet trail mix I was snacking on.
Although it was the easiest leg of the trip that last mile down seemed to take forever. I finally reached the trail register and signed out. The last half-mile was easy but just wouldn’t end. Finally I broke into the meadow and could see the parking lot. I felt like I was staggering at that point. I timed out at 9 hours, 19 minutes and 35 seconds, which is not really all that bad. I left the walking stick for someone else to use and got into the car and immediately drove back. As I was pulling out of the parking lot, I waved at the girl with the dog who was resting on the tailgate of her jeep. I drove the fifteen minutes back to Flagstaff and checked back into the same room at the Motel 6 and showered and took some Advil.
Humphries had been much tougher than I’d imagined but I am really proud I didn’t give up and made it to the summit. I don’t really ever want to do it again, but I’m proud that I did it this day.
After resting a while, I dressed and went back to Porky’s and had a roast beef sandwich that wasn’t all that great. Surprisingly, I wasn’t all that hungry---maybe I was just too tired to be hungry.
Back at the motel, I fell asleep around 8:30 but woke up a couple of times. Overall I finally did get a good sleep.
Tuesday---May 16
Woke up at 5:30 again and got up and took my time this morning. Repacked all my gear---I had really trashed out everything on the hike. Took a hot shower---wasn’t as stiff and sore as I thought I might be. Actually, I came out of the experience in pretty good shape. My knee was tender but not sore. My nose got sunburned (or wind burned) and would need some lotion. When I went outside the motel, it was really cold and the wind was fierce. I don’t think I could have climbed Humphries today---it was a good thing I had changed my schedule the day before.
No comments:
Post a Comment